How to Add a Heart Cut-Out to Iberis
Posted by Angie CHIA on
How to Add a Heart Cut-Out to Iberis
Hi Everyone, this is Angie from Peony Patterns here to show you how to make a simple heart cut-out on the gorgeous Iberis Dress. You can also find me under @pocketful_of_rainbows88 on instagram.
Iberis is a sophisticated dress with a showstopping back and a beautiful split bodice with flutter details. However, the simple version is also a great alternative to make if you are ever short on time. I’ve been dreaming of a heart cut-out for the stunning back ever since the pattern release. So here's the details on how to achieve this version.
Preparing your pattern piece
- Print and assemble your Iberis bodice pattern pieces.
Note: I’m making a simple Iberis by using the lining piece for the front and back bodice for a quick sew. The button back option is shown in this example. However, you can adapt the same approach for the zipper back option.
- Mark your seam allowance from the center back and neckline of your back bodice.
- Next, mark 3/8” (1cm) from the seam allowance on the center back of the back bodice. This is where the buttons will be sewn and also where the centre of your heart will be.
- Mark your seam allowance on the key hole opening.
Determine The Size of your Cut-Out
- Next, we determine the width of the heart cut-out. As I prefer my heart cut-out to be more subtle and not too wide, I would limit my heart not to exceed the width of the neckline.
I measured 1 7/8” / 4.8 cm from the marked seam allowance. This will form half the width of the heart cut-out.
- We will now determine the height and depth of your heart. Measure and mark 1 1/2”/3.8 cm from the hem allowance of the neckline. This will form the center point of your heart. Note: The bottom of your heart will end at the bottom of the key hole opening.
- Now let’s draw our heart cut-out. You could use draw the heart by freehand. Alternatively, use anything with a rounded edge to trace the top of the heart and use a ruler to extend the line to the bottom of the key hole opening. This will be the actual size of your heart cut-out once it is sewn.
Tip: This is the ideal time to check if you are happy with the size of the heart in terms of shape or width.
- Add seam allowance for your heart cut-out. I prefer to sew my curves with a smaller seam allowance for accuracy. In my example, I’m using a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance for the cut-out. However, feel free to use any seam allowance per your preference. Now, cut the heart out and your pattern piece is ready!
For this hack, ensure that you have the following pieces:
- Cut 4 back bodice lining pieces as 2 mirror image set - Choose the button back option (1 set main, 1 set lining)
- Cut 2 front bodice lining pieces (1 main, 1 lining)
- Cut 1 button loop piece (1 main)
- Cut 1 skirt placket piece (1 main)
- Cut 2 skirt pieces (2 main) - Button back option
- This is the ideal time to staystitch your heart at 1/4”. Tip: I’d usually move my needle to the left by just a nudge. The line will serve as a guide for sewing your heart cut-out subsequently.
- To stabilise the cut-out, cut a piece of lightweight fusible interfacing that is large enough to cover your cut-out and 1/2” (1.3cm) over the cut-out. Adhere the lightweight fusible interfacing to the lining piece over the cut-out area of the button back bodice. Trim the excess interfacing from the cut-out being very careful not to cut into your lining.
Constructing the bodice
To sew up the rest of the bodice and dress, refer to the following pages or section referred below in the Iberis Dress Pattern to complete your dress.
- To sew up the lining pieces, refer to the bottom of page 24 to sew up the lining pieces for your lining and main pieces.
- To attach the button loop, refer to page 39 to attach the button loop.
- For the back bodice, use 1/4” (7mm) as the seam allowance as you sew around the cut-out. Clip the cut-out or trim the seam allowance to 1/8” with pinking shears. Be very careful not to clip through the stitching. Follow the instructions on page 81 to 89 on completing the button back bodice.
- To complete the button back bodice and skirt, refer to pages 81 onwards.
Et voila! Your new Iberis dress is now complete with a stunning cut out!
You can also try different shapes for your cut-outs (for e.g. a star, bear, bunny or anything that is symmetrical in shape). Have fun creating cute cut-outs on your next Iberis Dress! Happy Sewing!!
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- Tags: Cute Cut-out hack, DIY cut-out pattern, Heart cut-out, Iberis Dress, Peony Pattern, Valentine's Day